The Steamy Way to Dinner
Oct. 1st, 2008 05:21 pmFrom http://www.nytimes.com/2008/10/01/dining/01rice.html:
SHIRLEY CHAN, a Chinese-American Web site designer, was born in Hong Kong, lives in Brooklyn, and has never cooked a pot of rice in her life. “One billion Chinese people cannot be wrong about rice,” she said: virtually every household has at least a basic rice cooker. As a child, it was her chore before each meal to wash the rice, measure it into the machine, and press the button. “It always, always comes out perfect,” she said. “Until I came here, I never even knew rice could burn.”It's true. My rice cooker is an old-fashioned one, and I really prefer its versatility.
How does the machine know when the rice is done? A built-in thermostat tracks the temperature of the bubbling mixture of rice and water. When the water boils and turns to steam, the temperature in the pot begins to rise, which signals the cooker to switch to warm.
But it’s easy to override the machine’s small brain. Press the “cook” button, melt butter in the bowl, and sweat a finely diced shallot in it until soft — then add rice, broth and saffron strands, and start the machine again to make a daffodil-yellow pilaf. Cook some short-grain rice, then drizzle in some sesame oil and switch back to “cook,” mix in some kimchi and break eggs on top for a simple bibimbap, the Korean-American staple of rice “and whatever is in the refrigerator,” Mr. Park said.
Make grits, risotto or any grain cooked by the absorption method simply by adding extra liquid and stirring often. The machine has plenty of built-in cushions for the cook: the temperature never gets very high, the surface is nonstick, and everything happens in a kind of slow-motion.
The new-model rice cookers, with digital menus and “fuzzy logic” operation, are actually less flexible than their one-button ancestors. The machines have their own ideas about brown rice, porridge, sushi rice and sometimes more.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-01 10:15 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-01 10:29 pm (UTC)I've been thinking about buying a rice cooker, and about what kind of features I want in one. Right now I have a dinky litle microwave one, and it's actually awesome for making just enough rice to mold into onigiri for the kids' lunches, but I'd like a little more capability. Are there brands that you'd suggest, by chance?
(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-02 02:06 am (UTC)It doesn't have to be that model or that brand, but simple is good, in my opinion. One of the ones where you put water in the cooker and set the metal rice cooker within it is the kind I'd recommend. That is, one where you have an outer water stage and various metal food containers which go in it...hmmm, I'm having trouble distinguishing it from the kind I don't like. We should talk, perhaps?
(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-02 02:25 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-02 09:01 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-07 11:03 pm (UTC)My shopping adventures this weekend were kind of disappointing (on this level, anyway -- on the upside, I found a place to buy quail eggs! Also, the motherlode of Pocky -- I now have flavors I can't even identify), in that most of the markets seem to carry really only (a) the bigger capacity cookers, or (b) the fancy fuzzy-logic kind, and I don't really need that kind of capacity or want to make that kind of investment. There were a couple of smaller, inexpensive models, but they seemed to be the direct-heat kind (they didn't specify in so many words on the outside of the box, but given the dimensions of cooker and pot, it seemed like the pot would be in contact with the heating element) and I agree with you that the indirect-heat method seems superior. And nobody carried Tatung; there was a lot of Tayama, a lot of Zojirushi, and a lot of Tiger (which seems CRAZY expensive compared to models of apparently-similar features in other brands, not sure what's up with that or if I'm missing something).
So I'm thinking of mail-order. I don't think I need a great big pot, but about a 5-7 cup capacity seems appropriate, and I found this one; does that seem appropriately priced to you?
Oh, and I remembered that my Black&Decker steamer/rice cooker, which I've had for 13 years and mmmmmmaybe cooked rice in once or twice 12 years ago, *is* a rice cooker as well as a steamer (which I use it for all the time). I made some short-grain rice in it last night, and it did okay! It's only a 3-cup capacity, though (which is enough for a single meal, or for making onigiri for lunch boxes for a day or two, but not for significant make-ahead work), and it doesn't keep rice warm, so I still want another one, but it's handy to have remembered I had it.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-08 01:00 am (UTC)Isn't that amazing? "Men's Pocky" is the one that really makes
I've never even heard of Tiger-brand rice cookers.
$50 isn't bad, particularly including shipping. We got ours for around $30, if memory serves, but that was years ago. That model of Tatung is dead-simple, and should last forever. Make sure you either keep the little measuring cup or carefully figure out what the volume measures are (on both the cup and the rice pot), because I personally am sunk for proportions if I can't find the thing. Fortunately we have two, so we can usually find at least one of the measuring cups.
I also find that perforated steamer platform very useful for steam-heating dumplings and buns.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-08 03:33 am (UTC)I just looked up more info about Tiger; apparently they're big in Japan. The H Mart carries a bunch of lunch jars and stuff from them also.
Thanks so much for your advice on this! It's good to know that's a reasonable price; it seemed in the right ballpark to me, but it's always good to sanity-check these things! And yeah, I'll take the warning about the measuring cup to heart -- if I'm smart, I'll actually WRITE DOWN the information, in the manual or something, so that when I both lose the cup and forget what the measurement was, I won't be doomed.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-02 09:28 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-02 10:24 pm (UTC)(BTW, the price that site is asking is too high.)
(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-03 04:27 am (UTC)This has been really helpful -- between this and the reviews I've read, I think I've got a much clearer idea of what I'm looking for. Now I just need to see what's available locally. I'm definitely looking forward to shopping on Saturday!
(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-02 12:10 am (UTC)Now I want some.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-02 01:11 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-02 02:08 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-02 02:20 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-02 02:46 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-02 03:44 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-02 03:45 am (UTC)Fortunately this is possible. Perhaps we can do that next time I come by.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-02 03:08 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-02 03:43 am (UTC)This review appears to recommend a specific cooker for brown rice. I have no idea whether that particularly cooker is necessary for cooking or not, but it seems like someone's had success with brown rice.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-02 04:54 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-03 04:19 am (UTC)Brown rice needs more water and a longer cook time than white, and it also benefits from some soaking before you start the cooking process, so that the water can penetrate the hull. The last factor is easy to control -- you just let the rice sit in the cooking water for a bit before you actually turn on the machine. How much control you get over the second factor is going to depend on the machine, and the simple ones may actually be better for this, because there the cook time is controlled by the water -- the way they work is that the heating element goes all the way on, and because there's water in the pot, the temperature can't rise above the boiling point of water (more heat energy just goes into making the water boil faster) until the water is exhausted; at that point, the internal temperature starts to rise and a simple thermostat kicks things over to the next setting (either "keep it warm" or "off" depending on features). You can see, then, that with this type of machine the length of the cooking cycle is a direct function of the amount of water -- if you have too little, it'll reach the end while the rice is still underdone, and if you have too much, it'll keep cooking after the rice is finished and turn it into mush, but if you get it just right, it ought to click off just as the rice is perfect. Fancier "fuzzy logic" cookers don't do this all-the-way-on-till-finished thing, but keep constantly adjusting the temperature and moisture -- some of them are reportedly awesome at this, like the Zojirushi 'ness mentioned, and there's a Sanyo that's supposed to be really good also -- but others, not so much. I think if you're not going to be eating rice as an everyday staple, and especially if you don't need fancy timers and so on, going with a simple cooker, and then doing the experimentation to learn exactly the right ratio of water for it, will do you just fine.
As for other features you might look for, let me refer you up the page to the conversation 'ness and I had about the cooker he's got -- as we noted, his has a separate chamber with water in it, outside the cooking chamber with water and rice, and this keeps the bottom of the pan from being in direct contact with the heating element, so the rice at the very bottom of the pan doesn't scorch. With the longer cook time that brown rice needs already, I think this feature becomes even more desirable. Also, I've read a bunch of reviews (and this really nice review-of-reviews) that gripe about glass lids, and I note that the cooker 'ness has and likes doesn't have one. Watching rice cook isn't exciting, and if you've got your water ratio right, you don't need to watch it to see whether it's done, so I'd forgo the glass lid.
Just in case you're curious, here's what I change to cook brown rice versus white in my dinky cooker: it's got internal markings for white rice and water, and the cook time is 5.5 minutes for my microwave's power level with white; for brown, I fill it 1/4" less full with brown rice, and then add water to 1/2" above the water mark (as much as I can get away with without making it boil over -- this is why I reduce the rice, to give more margin). I do this the night before, and set the cooker with the rice and water into the microwave, so I've got a nice long soak time, and then when my alarm goes off, I wander out to the kitchen and start it cooking for 8 minutes, and go have my shower. By the time I'm done, it's cooked and rested and ready to go into bento boxes or be eaten for breakfast.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-06 01:13 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-02 04:55 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-02 04:00 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-10-03 11:24 am (UTC)